An essential guide to the Thai capital, Bangkok, including advice on the best hotels, restaurants, bars, shops and attractions.
Why go?
The summer heat puts many visitors off, however Thailand’s excessive New Year’s celebrations (Songkran is celebrated in mid-April) are a sight to behold. For a week, the capital turns into a battle zone for children and grown-ups, who roam the streets armed with water pistols, buckets of water and talcum powder which is shot or hurled at all passers-by (watch out, foreign visitors are favorite targets). Despite the heat, it’s really a fun time to visit and partake in Thailand’s most important festival.
Thailand’s capital is South-east Asia’s most enigmatic city, a head-on clash between tradition and modernity. First-time visitors may be a little taken aback by the concrete canyons and futuristic, billboard-covered skyscrapers, but take a few steps away from the main roads into one of the city’s countless alleys and traditional Thai culture is everywhere – an urban cornucopia of smells, tastes, sounds and sights one in unlikely to forget.
Bangkok gets the balance right between the expensive, the esoteric and the profane. The squeaky-clean sky train and underground system make most of this huge metropolis navigable, whisking visitors from their luxury accommodation to a sparkling Buddhist temple or an ancient amulet market within minutes – a kind of time travel possible in few other cities of 11 million people.
River trips, museums, shopping centers and, of course, Bangkok’s nightlife (which has come a long way from gaudy to cosmopolitan) make for the defining Far Eastern urban experience. Despite Thailand’s recent political turmoil, Bangkok remains one of the world’s safest cities. Violent crime against foreign visitors is extremely rare.
When to go?
Bangkok is at its best during the cool season, from November to February, after the monsoon and before the sweltering heat sets in at the beginning of March. April, May and June are infernally hot - sitting on a motorbike in the day time is like riding through a fire storm - though by mid-June, the rains usually arrive, bringing much needed respite, taking the dust out of the air and making the plants grow in record time. The rainy season is actually a great time to visit - few tourists, lower temperatures and the occasional monsoonal downpour that floods the streets and brings the kids out to play.
Getting there
Flights
International flights arrive at Suvarnabhumi International Airport (00 66 2 7230000,www.suvarnabhumiairport.com), about 20 miles to the east of the city. The old airport, Don Muang, about 12 miles north of Bangkok, handles some domestic flights.
Transfers
From 6am-midnight, the Suvarnabhumi Airport Express rail link (00 66 2 1321888) runs to a new terminal in Makkasan, which is not particularly central but connects to Petchaburi underground (MRT). Journey time 15 minutes, fare 150 baht (about £3). A slower Suvarnabhumi Airport Cityline goes to the more central Phaya Thai station, which connects to Phaya Thai sky train station (BTS). Journey time 30 minutes, fare 15-45 baht (30p-95p) depending on distance travelled.
For visitors heading to downtown Sukhumvit Road or the backpacker enclave of Khao San Road, an airport taxi, which rarely costs more than 250 baht (£5), is more convenient – but insist on the driver using the meter. A 50 baht (£1) airport taxi surcharge must be paid on top of the fare. Airport limousines charge about 600 baht (£12.75).
A number of airport express buses run to the city: AE1 heads for Silom Road, AE2 goes along Petchaburi Road to Khao San Road, AE3 serves Sukhumvit Road and AE4 passes via Siam Square to Hualamphong Railway Station. Tickets cost 100 baht (£2).
Trains
Some visitors arrive in Bangkok by rail at Hualamphong station (seewww.railway.co.th for information and bookings). An underground station (MRT) of the same name is attached to the station.
Getting around
Sky train
The quickest modes of transport are the BTS (Bangkok Mass Transit System) and the MRT (Mass Rapid Transit System). BTS tickets cost 15-40 baht (30p-85p), a Smart Pass 350 baht (£7.45) – good for 20 journeys (see www.bts.co.th for details). MRT tickets cost 13-30 baht. Both networks run from 6am-midnight.
Taxis
These are among the cheapest in the world, but should be avoided during rush hour. Always insist on drivers switching on the meter. The minimum fare is 35 baht (75p). A trip across town should be around 100-150 baht (£2-£3).
Walking
Due to traffic and pollution, this is only recommended by the river and through Chinatown.
Buses
These are painfully slow.
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